Sunday, April 11, 2010
Mad Hatter Tea
Tuesday, April 6, 2010
Czech out the WIENer!
March 26th - After meeting up with my friend Kasey from USC (I also visited her in Athens) and another girl from her program named Claire, my weekend became much more enjoyable. We started the morning by heading to Stephansdom (St. Stephan's Cathedral) in downtown Vienna. Closeby was the Mozarthaus, where Mozart lived for the longest period of time out of any of his 17 homes and also where he is thought to have written The Marriage of Figaro. We then walked around the area for a bit before getting lunch and stopping at a famous chocolatier called Manner. We stocked up on delicious chocolate (I always seem to seek it out when I travel!) and made our way to Hofburg Palace, the main home for the Habsburg Dynasty. This palace was HUGE. It contained gardens with people laying out on the grass, a national library that makes the Beauty and the Beast library pale in comparison, a detailed account of the life of Empress Sissi, and a China collection that would've made any Brit gasp. We headed back towards Staatsoper (the opera house...which, unfortunately, we weren't able to go into unless we had tickets) and got sachertortes from the famous Sacher Hotel where they were created. Sachertortes are a traditional Viennese chocolate cake that is covered in a layer of apricot preserves and a hard chocolate shell. Delicious! We sat on a bench and did some people watching while we ate. We took the trolley over to Belvedere Palace, which is not a royal palace but actually the home of a very wealthy man. We had traditional wienerschnitzels for dinner!
March 27th - We got up fairly early so we could make it to Schonbrunn Palace (Habsburg's summer palace) before getting on the train. It was sunny outside so the palace looked beautiful :) Our tour got cut a little short because the inside was being renovated. It was a little frustrating but gave us time to browse the cute little Easter Market in front of the palace. We made our way to the train station to head to Prague. The three of decided that Austria is one of the most underrated countries to visit. They have such a rich history but you don't hear much about it in the US. Our train ride was relaxing - I watched the countryside and dozed. After Claire realized our hostel was pretty far from the center of Prague, we spent some quality time at the train station booking another one. While on the metro on the way to our new hostel, both Kasey and I were victims of an attempted pickpocket! There was a couple in their late 20s standing next to me. The man had on a big jacket. I felt the magnetic clip of my bag open (but wasn't sure if I had caught it on something) so I closed it and stepped back so I wouldn't be touching anything. When we were getting off, Kasey and Claire were trying to make their way out of the door but the couple would not move. Eventually they got off the train as well. Kasey felt her pocket and realized her wallet was missing so she grabbed the guy's arm and he dropped her wallet onto the platform. He and his girlfriend ran back onto the train. Such a close call! We decided to ease our stressed minds with a pub crawl. We hit up several bars and ended at a 5-story club along the Vltava River.
March 28th - We were planning on going on a walking tour but ended up missing it because we forgot to change our clocks for daylight savings! We weren't too upset though because it started raining. Instead we went to the Jewish Quarter and toured through a bunch of sites. The Old Jewish Cemetery, where Rabbi Loew of the Golem fable and David Gans (who the Star of David was named after) are buried, had layers and layers of tombstones because the city would not give the Jews any more land for the burials. It is super crowded, definitely would be one of the creepiest cemeteries at night. The Old-New Synagogue, which is the oldest working synagogue in Europe, has displays of various Jewish artifacts along the walls. My favorite stop was the Spanish Synagogue. The inside had amazing gold patterns covering the entire wall. It was really beautiful. I really enjoyed seeing historical Jewish buildings and artifacts because it is much less common to find post-WWII. One of our tour guides later mentioned that the reason Prague's Jewish Quarter was so well-preserved was that Hitler had planned on using it as a museum for the exterminated race. It's really chilling, but lucky for us now. After having latkes for lunch at a Kafka themed cafe, we headed back into Old Town Square and checked out the Czech version of an Easter Market. This one was much more exciting! There were blacksmiths, children dressed in traditional garb singing on a stage, and so much food! We tried a pastry called a trdelnik - it is similar to a cinnamon roll but spun over fire on a thick pole and then rolled in cinnamon and sugar. Like almost everything I've been tasting, delish! I'm kinda craving one as I write this haha. We saw the astronomical clock (known as Orloy to the Czechs) do its little performance as the hour struck and got tickets to head to the top of the tower. There was a great view of the entire city from the top and we took pictures with the trumpeter. Later we were casually browsing the area, waiting for our ghost tour to start when Kasey noticed her camera was gone. Despite epic searching, we realized she had actually become the victim of a skilled pickpocketer. She was really upset the rest of the night. She felt guilty that she had let her guard down and was upset that she had lost so many irreplaceable pictures. We still went on the ghost tour... which was more interesting than creepy because we got to hear a lot of the old myths about Prague. It was difficult to get back in a good mood though.
Spanish Synagogue
with a statue of characters from Kafka story
Kasey and I with our trdelnik
in front of the Astronomical Clock
(doesn't it look like a fairytale?)
Charles Bridge and Vltava River
St. Vitus' Cathedral
March 30th - One good thing about having my flight canceled was that I got to cover all the things I had missed. After an awesome free breakfast and a pleasant night's rest with my own king size bed, I went back to Old Town Square. I walked along the Vltava and across Charles Bridge, where I rubbed the lucky plaque that all the tourists rub! I headed to the John Lennon Wall and took some pictures (while listening to the Beatles on my iPod of course!). I hit up a couple shops in the area. It was fun because one place I stopped was a vintage store - in the US and more westernized nations these stores can be really expensive and feel combed-over. This one was fun and reasonably priced! I had a really relaxing, independent day and in the afternoon successfully made it back to London.
Prague was probably the most beautiful city I visited. Most of the buildings and architecture are unchanged and all of the roads are still cobblestone. If you keep your line of sight above the people you feel like you are transported back into Medieval times. I loved it!
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
A REAL St. Patrick's Day
March 19th - We took the train up the Belfast. Part way through we had to take the bus to the next station and get back on the train because of a bomb threat. The weird thing is that no one really seemed to mind. At night we decided to go to Botanic... a big street with a lot of restaurants and pubs. We decided to go to an Italian restaurant because we hadn't actually sat down and ate in a long time. My stomach had been a little upset before we went out but I thought it was because I hadn't eaten in a long time. Towards the end of the meal I wasn't feeling too great so I decided to go outside to get some air. I wanted to sit down, but it was dirty outside so I sat on a little ledge inside the foyer that was still cold. I was getting kind of nauseated and got up to go outside when BAM, it just all came out... in the restaurant. It was so much fun as I'm sure you can imagine! I spent the rest of the evening throwing up multiple times at the hostel... quite possibly one of the worst things ever. There was only one bathroom on the first floor and our room was on the top floor so every time I threw up into the trash can I had to walk down 4 floors to the bathroom. (I'm sure you are all loving this detail haha).
March 20th - I got up to do our day-long bus tour that we had pre-booked. I paid to see Northern Ireland and I wasn't about to miss it. I spent most of the bus ride pretty miserable and had a barf bag handy just in case. Luckily I didn't have to use it. We stopped at Giant's Causeway, Carrick-a-rede Rope Bridge, Bushmill's Distillery, Dunluce Castle, and a couple other smaller places throughout the day. The whole coast was beautiful. Our tour guide/bus driver had a funny Irish sense of humor... but he drove with one hand holding a microphone the entire time we were on these small coastal roads! It was a bit scary. I went back to sleep for the rest of the day.
March 21st - In the morning we went on a "Black Taxi" Tour which brought us to both the Protestant and Catholic sides of Belfast. We saw a ton of murals, broken glass, Crumlin Road Prison, and the "Peace Wall." It was a pretty intense morning. Everywhere we went we could feel the tension that the conflict has brought upon the communities. Homes next to the Peace Wall had to have cages around the back so anything that was thrown over would hit the house. The road to enter each area is locked at night in hopes of preventing violence. It was so horrible to hear our driver tell use that the people want the wall there; they want the divide so they don't have to interact. They don't care if it limits where they have access to... their hatred is just so deep for each other. It is completely different than the feelings towards the Berlin Wall. It is just so unbelievable to see this intolerance and violence... especially in such a modern country as the United Kingdom. It really was an eye-opening experience.
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
My Love Visits!
March 15th - We went on a tour of the remake of Shakespeare's Globe Theatre (the original burned down). It is a lot bigger from the inside than you would think. They still offer shows that have tickets for the "groundlings," or audience the stands in front of the stage. It would definitely be a fun experience. Next we headed to Tate Modern, which is in a massive, scary, dungeon-like building that does not scream "liberal art!" at all. The museum was great though... there were Warhol, Picasso, Monet, and many other superb works. There were also video rooms of self-mutilation videos from the 70s and 80s that were really disturbing... but something you can't really NOT see. We walked across the Millenium Bridge (or Wibbly Wobbly Bridge... nicknamed because when it was first built it would sway when it was windy... they closed it almost immediately after it was opened to reinforce it) and headed to St. Paul's Cathedral. Inside the cathedral is just breathtakingly beautiful. We did the 584 step climb to the Golden Gallery, which is a small level above the dome. The steps are steep, skinny, and exhausting... just thinking back on it is almost making me break a sweat haha. The viewing gallery is terrifying because there is only a metal railing and it gets really windy! Such a great view of all of London though. That night we went to see Les Miserables at the Queen's Theatre. It was so good! The girl who played Eponine was really endearing and, of course, the music was just extraordinary. It is probably my favorite show I have seen in London so far.
March 16th - I had class in the morning but afterwards I took her to Buckingham Palace and briefly to Hyde Park. Our next stop was afternoon tea at Harrods! I have been wanting to go to high tea the entire semester so I was really excited. We got unlimited food and pots of tea. Everything was impeccable and we felt so proper haha... and also slightly out of place of some other the delicate ladies there. Very fun though! I took her shopping at some stores that are only in the UK and out to a great fish n chips place for dinner. I left for Dublin the next day so we just relaxed and got food in the morning until I left. She met up with another friend in London for the rest of the week.
Monday, March 22, 2010
Spring Break! Athens & Barcelona
While in Athens, I stayed with my friend Kasey who is studying abroad there that I know from USC.
March 5th - we went to Syntagma Square (which is the town center in front of Parliament) to see the riots. Right before I arrived, the Greek government implemented a bunch of budget cuts in response to the horrible economy... hence the riots. There were a ton of police with gas masks and riot gear. People were tearing pieces of the sidewalk off and throwing them and the police were shooting tear gas into the center of the crowds. Kasey and I definitely could feel the tear gas... which got progressively worse over time. It felt like you had rubbed you nose, eyes, and throat in spicy food. We walked around the area, looking at all of the knockoff items that the Africans were selling. We ended up buying baller men's watches haha. When we were headed back to her place we took pictures with the Special Forces cops (the ones who had the tear gas)...
One thing that was refreshing about the Greeks was their absolute adoration for Americans! Especially since the last place I traveled to (Berlin) was not so welcoming, it was great! One night we were going to a club and arrived to see a really long line out the door. We were with a friend who spoke English and Greek so he was talking to the bouncer at the front of the line. He told them that we were American and they let us cut the entire line (which we later found out that you had to have reservations for!) Then... and this is the most incredible part... we found out that the world famous DJ Paul van Dyk was headlining at the club that night!! We were in heaven haha. People in Greece party til the wee hours of the morning. Every time I went out we stayed out until at least 5 am (more often later haha).
I did most of the touring to sites on my own. Kasey had class and it was her midterm week... but luckily everything was pretty easy to find. She lives really close the the old Olympic Stadium from 1896 so I walked by it almost everyday. The Acropolis was absolutely incredible. I saw the Temple of Athena Nike, Herodeion Theatre, the Parthenon Theatre, and of course the Parthenon! It so beautiful at night because it is all lit up and you can see it from most parts of the city. I also visited the National Archeological Museum. It wasn't too big... which is nice compared to the massive museums in London. I was able to complete it in about an hour and half. I also went to the famous poet/sandalmaker... who has made Roman sandals for the Beatles, Jackie O, Sophia Loren, etc. I chose out of about 30 styles and he fits the sandal exactly to your foot. I also got a really cool leather bag (which I've been wanting for a very long time) so it was a very exciting stop! I also went inside the small Byzantine churches that randomly pop up in the middle of shopping streets, and made my way through the Monastiraki Flea Market. The night before I left we went out to a traditional taverna dinner where you get served multiple plates of food and mugs of wine. Very delicious!
Barcelona
I absolutely LOVED this city! Their fashion sense seemed like it was almost a decade behind the times... they wore really grungy clothes and had their hair shaved or partially shaved with long sideburns. Definitely not a flattering look. They seem to think it makes them look independent.
The first morning we were strolling down Las Ramblas and found La Boqueria, the amazing fresh market that sold delicious fruit drinks for only one euro! I tried several different flavors, but my favorite was papaya coconut. We adored this place. We went back every day we were in Barcelona! We basically just oriented ourselves with the city the first day... and had delicious tapas of baked goat cheese and pine nuts and fresh bread. Delicious! We walked along the beach area... which looked a lot like southern California and made me miss the warm weather! We went out at night and my friends and I shared several jugs of sangria. So good! We made friends with some of the bartenders and they gave us discounts. By the end of the night we had just ordered more sangria and decided it was time to leave... so we had the bartenders put it into a plastic bottle for us as take away. So silly.
March 11th - Of course we started our morning off with our daily juices! We headed to Park Guell... our first impression of Gaudi's work. It was like a fairytale. We toured through his last home (which is is Park Guell) and it was surprisingly simplistic for a man of such imagination. We had lunch at a vegetarian organic restaurant (one of the girls is both) whose slogan was "Organic is orgasmic." The food was really good and I felt so healthy! We headed to the Cathedral, which was a dark, drastic contrast to Park Guell's colorful lively vibe. We drank from the communal fountain (don't worry, it's clean!) and admired the dramatic architecture. We also stopped at Santa Maria del Mar and stumbled upon a Gothic market filled with antiques and neat postcards from the 1920s. I love that kind of stuff! I could've bought a ton of stuff but settled on a few Barcelona postcards, and one from London that had been sent to Barcelona. If only I knew how to read Catalunyan!
March 12th - Our busiest day because we had to fit everything in before leaving in the morning. We got up early to go to the Picasso Museum. While some of his biggest works were not there, I really enjoyed looking at the collection. My favorites were his variations off of Las Meninas. We then set out to cover all of Gaudi's buildings. Our first stop was Palau Guell... not too interesting because the terrace was closed. We were only able to see the basement... which in a normal house would have been incredible, but when you are expecting something great it is a bit of a disappointment. Moving north we headed to Casa Batllo. This is a house the supposedly has no straight lines in it. Gaudi's work is inspired by nature, and this house specifically by the ocean, the movement of waves, the ribs of a whale, etc. It is remarkable. My friends and I were discussing what it would have been like to have grown up in a house like that. Every dream would be imaginable and every goal attainable! The next stop was Casa Mila, formerly known as La Pedrera. It wasn't quite as cool as Casa Batllo, but the look from the outside, the indoor courtyard, and the rooftop were still pretty amazing. It also had some exhibits depicting how Gaudi figured out tension points in his buildings. He never drew up plans for his buildings... instead he would hang sandbags in the shape of the structure and use mirrors to make adjustments. So insane! Our last stop was at Sagrada Familia. Our guide book told is it was open until 8 pm... but when we got there around 6:20 they told us they were closing in 10 minutes! We knew we couldn't leave Barcelona without seeing it so we paid the entry fee for the short time anyway. Luckily we didn't get completely kicked out for about 25 minutes. It gave us enough time to walk through quickly and go through the museum downstairs. But oh my god... it was incredible. I knew it was under construction, but I didn't realize it was completely unfinished on the inside. The pillars on the inside resemble the stems of flowers and the roof at the top looks like flower blossoms... and there is stadium seating halfway up the sides of the walls. It is just unbelievable. I could sit inside for an entire day and still have my breath taken away by the end of the day. From the outside the structure just looks so heavy, and also like it is melting into the ground. There are little fruit blossoms on the roof (which is pretty interesting for a religious building). We could've spent so much more time there, but we were so glad we made it at all! At night we went to the National Palace in Montjuic and watched the Magic Fountain show. It was pretty, but kinda resembled Las Vegas haha.
Thursday, March 4, 2010
It's been so long since I've seen your face...
We just finished our Wednesday tours, which are technically a lab for my Rhetoric of London class. Our trip on Feb. 9th was to the East End. This is London’s poorest area, where immigrants first make their home after arriving at the docklands. Remnants from the Protestant French Huguenots, Irish Catholics, and Eastern European Jews can be seen amongst today’s mosques and restaurants on Brick Lane, now a Muslim Bangladeshi community. The East End is also where Jack the Ripper murdered and mutilated his 6 known victims. We also stopped at the late Dennis Severs’ restored Victorian home. Dennis Severs was born in California, grew up with this romantic ideal of England, moved to London, and purchased a home with the plan of restoring it to its original state. When I mean original, I mean EVERYTHING was the same… no plumbing, no heating, and all original furniture. When he was alive he would dress in the clothing of the Victorian era, ride around in a coach, and offer tours of his home (which would include him excusing himself to pee in the chamber pot behind the screen in the same room as his guests… hey he want the experience to be legitimate!) Although no one lives in the home anymore, his friends still provide tours. And don’t worry, fruit and vegetables are cut up and the chamber pots are filled so all of your senses get the real experience! Our program also treated us to coffee at an adorable shop called Carluccio's. I ordered bicerin... which came with little cups of espresso, chocolate sauce, and cream for us to mix!
Dennis Severs' kitchen
So I'm gonna do a whirlwind tour of the rest of my month! On February 12th, we had our second excursion to Windsor Castle and Hampton Court Palace. Both were amazing! I loved the ornate interior decoration and architecture. On the 14th (Chinese New Year) we headed to Chinatown for dim sum and Chinese pastries. 16th - We saw 39 Steps at the Criterion Theatre in Leicester Square. It was hilarious... really dry, quirky, physical British humor... and only 4 cast members! 17th - Our class was sponsored by one of the Lords in Parliament to take a tour! It was pretty cool... we had our pictures taken and printed on lanyards and everything. Hella legit! 21st - London's celebration of Chinese New Year in Chinatown, Leicester Square, and Trafalgar Square. We had pork buns, played with the little bags that snap, and watched a bunch of Chinese performances of dance, singing, etc... SO crowded. It is the biggest gathering I have seen in London so far. 24th - Imperial War Museum. It had a ton of stuff but we were kinda pressed for time. Some features included "the Blitz Experience" (narrated walk-through display with moving benches from bombs and stuff) , a walk-through trench exhibit, and a really moving Holocaust display. 26th - Our last excursion to Oxford and Blenheim Palace. The uni had unbelievable buildings. We saw the Great Hall and staircase from the Harry Potter films and the shop where the real Alice from Alice in Wonderland bought her sweets. (Lewis Carroll taught at Oxford and Alice's father was a dean at one of the colleges) Blenheim Palace is where Sir Winston Churchill was born. (his uncle inherited it) We saw the room he was born in as well as the place he proposed to his wife Clementine. The land outside of the house... if you can call a palace a house... was absolutely breathtaking. There is a private lake with a path around it and so many intimate areas to wander off and get lost in... Not to mention it was BEAUTIFUL day... (in London that means it was sunny despite still being cold haha)
Windsor Castle
inside a maze at Hampton Court Palace
me, Kristy, Michelle @ the Chinese New Year Celebration
Annie, me, Michelle, Kristy inside Parliament holding our passes
Imperial War Museum
Oxford Uni - Christ Church (one of the colleges)
Hogwarts staircase
Hogwarts Great Hall
shop where Alice bought her sweets
Blenheim Palace
gardens of Blenheim
where Churchill proposed to his wife
overlooking the lake
in the trees
my attempt at being artsy
As you may have noticed I really enjoyed my time in the countryside sun! Well that covered all the big events of the past few weeks. I have to get back to packing cuz I'm headed to the airport in an hour! Greece and Spain, here I come! Cheers!